Six O’Clock Solution: Sausage cassoulet for traditional tastes (2024)

Traditional French chefs insist there are only a few legitimate versions of cassoulet, which originated in southern France. The dish is said to have modest beginnings, using leftovers, when the citizens of Castelnaudary were barricaded in their town in 1355 during a war with the English. U.S. cookbook author Mark Bittman shows flexibility in Dinner for Everyone (Penguin Random House, $54). He offers three versions for each of the 100 recipes in this handsome book: one quick (such as the variation below), one vegan, and one that’s a little fancier for a party.

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For cassoulet, white beans (white kidney beans or cannellini beans) are traditional. So is pork (a roast, sausages or bacon), duck (fresh or cooked confit) and garlic. Duck fat can replace the olive oil in this recipe and add flavour. Authorities say to make the cassoulet and refrigerate it until needed, harking back to French home cooks who would keep adding to this lusty stew as required and reheating it for months — even years. Serve with a green salad and crusty bread.

Sausage Cassoulet

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Serves 4

2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 1/2 pounds (750 g) mild Italian sausages, cut in chunks

1 red onion, chopped

2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped garlic

2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped fresh thyme, or 2 teaspoons (10 mL) dried

Salt

1/8 teaspoon (generous pinch) cayenne, or to taste

1 cup (250 mL) white wine or water

1 can (28 ounces / 796 mL) diced tomatoes

2 cans (19 ounces / 540 mL each) white beans, rinsed, drained

4 thick slices of bread (optional)

Turn broiler to high and set rack 4 inches (10 cm) below it.

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. When oil is hot, add sausages and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until no longer pink, 5 to 10 minutes.

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Raise heat to medium-high and add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the sausages sizzle and brown and the vegetables soften and turn golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir in thyme, pinch of salt and cayenne. Add wine and continue to cook, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, until the liquid is reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add tomatoes and half the beans, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat so mixture bubbles gently. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens and darkens, 10 to 15 minutes.

If adding a crumb crust, tear bread into bite-size pieces, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and broil in preheated broiler until crisp and browned, about 2 to 3 minutes, shaking the baking sheet to turn bread. Remove pan from broiler and cool.

Add remaining beans to the pot. If the mixture looks too thick, add more wine or water, 1/4 cup (60 mL) at a time. Heat for a few minutes, stirring occasionally.

Adjust seasonings and serve, topped with the bread (if using) and a drizzle of olive oil.

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