Olympus 30mm f3.5 Macro: Micro Four Thirds Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review (2024)

maggiemole wrote:

I finally acknowledged after reading posts from Mike Rowe, Adrian Harris and Nick the Gardner's Assistant that I have been failing with macro because I was too ambitious for a novice. So, with humility, I have now ordered the Olympus macro and look forward to it arriving in the next 2 weeks (I gather there might be some delay getting stocks into the UK at the moment). I had originally thought I could use my zoom lenses with additional equipment (tubes, Raynox 150 or close-up lenses) but finally cottoned on to the fact that my lack of technique was the main problem, and I'll be better off using a simpler macro lens to get up to speed.

Well....Lack of technique is going to bite you no matter what lens you use. It's the old saying: A tourist stops a passerby on the streets of NY, and asks "How do I get to Carnegie Hall?" The passerby looks at him, and says "practice, practice, practice".

I've been shooting macro for probably about 20 years now (and interested in it for a lot longer than that) with all sorts of lenses and cameras. Never used bellows or reversing rings, as those impressed me as being too fussy for my particular uses, but they can give great results in the right hands. However, I have used all sorts of lenses and diopters for macro over the years, and in recent years have gone to using long teles (but not average long; REALLY long, like the 100-300 or 100-400mm ones) with extension tubes for most of what I shoot.

I still have my (treasured) micro Nikkor 55mm f3.5 pre-AI lens, which is still amazing, and is one of only two vintage lenses I have kept from the early days of M43 when adapting lenses made up for not having a lot of native lens options. I will never get rid of that one, but I don't use it that much anymore. I did have, and liked very much, the PL 45mm f2.8 macro, but found I just wasn't using it a whole lot after I started working with very long teles and the ext. tubes. I did buy the 30mm Oly macro, on a whim, when it came up on a Black Friday special a couple of years ago, and, oddly enough, really enjoyed using it, so when I sold off a lot of my M43 gear, I got rid of the PL45mm and kept the Oly 30mm. No, it's not as good in a few ways, but it's awfully close, and since I am not doing a lot with dedicated macros right now, AND it's very small, AND I can use it as a walk around lens for non-macro stuff, it was a better choice to keep. I think it's a fun lens to use, also in general.

Any comments from users of this lens? It looks very good in reviews. It will go on my Panasonic GX9, and as I dislike flash I hope to use the ring light instead to compensate for the f3.5 moderately sized aperture. The main interest is in static things not as small as tiny insects or flies' eyes.

The only suggestion I have for using it on the GX9, which I also own, is to try and keep the shutter speed up a bit, as the IBIS in the GX9 is not really great with it at macro distances. Stabilization in general is difficult for most cameras and lenses at macro distances, but this is one area that I think the Oly bodies do a bit better with than the GX9. It's not terrible, but you just need to be aware of it, and watch your light.

One other thing you do need to get used to; with macro, shooting wide open is going to give you too shallow DOF. Focus stacking can take care of that, but do some experimenting so you know what apertures are going to work best for your purposes with your shots. For a lot of what I shoot, I don't need everything in focus, and I use the OOF areas as a way to frame the particular details that I am most interested in in the shot. But, that's my thing, and it may not be what you want to do, of course. Experimenting with the lens will tell you that, soon enough .

One other thing: With macro, it's very easy to get caught up in just concentrating on the subject and not seeing what else is in the frame. You may get a fabulous shot of a flower, but find there are weirdly distracting pieces of foliage in the background that you didn't notice when taking the shot. It requires patience and concentration on the entire field of view to make macro shots really work as good photographic compositions. That's the part of macro work that takes the longest to master, and whatever lens helps you get into that groove is a good thing.

Oh, and as an added bonus: Once you figure out what works for you best in terms of macro shooting, you may find that you can use just about any lens for it, if its minimum focus distance can get you close enough. That's when those long teles with extension tubes may jump back into your bag .

-J

Olympus 30mm f3.5 Macro: Micro Four Thirds Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review (2024)

FAQs

Is Micro Four Thirds better for macro? ›

Even though that's lower than the usual 24 megapixel sensor of APS-C cameras, it's a greater density of pixels because they're all crammed into a smaller sensor. As a result, it's easier to put more pixels on small or distant subjects with micro four thirds, like in wildlife and macro photography.

What is the working distance of Olympus 30mm macro? ›

The 2.5x maximum magnification (35mm equivalent) and close 14mm working distance get you closer to your subject than ever before.

Can Micro Four Thirds be used professionally? ›

Having used Micro Four Thirds cameras like the Olympus EM1 for professional work, he emphasizes the confidence these cameras instill, ensuring that he can always deliver quality results to his clients. In addition to reliability, he praises the superior handling and ergonomics of Micro Four Thirds cameras.

Is Micro 4 3 still relevant? ›

In 2022 I don't think Micro 4/3 is dead, but I do think there are far fewer justifications in its favour now. The smaller u43 bodies and lenses are still a popular choice for travel photography, families and hobbyists.

What distance should I shoot with a macro lens? ›

A macro lens is a special type of camera lens that has the ability to work with very short focusing distances, taking sharp images of very small subjects. A true macro lens has a magnification ratio of 1:1 (or greater), and a minimum focus distance around 30cm.

Can macro lens be used for long distance? ›

Can macro lenses also be used for taking 'regular' pictures and photographs of distant subjects and landscapes? - Quora. Yes, and they're reasonably good at it too. They're typically a bit slower than other prime lenses, but a 105 mm f/2.8 macro will also be an excellent portrait lens (on full frame).

How many mm should a macro lens be? ›

Macro lenses are available in a range of focal lengths for different purposes. The most common focal lengths are around 50mm, 100mm, and 180mm, although the exact values depend on the manufacturer. Macro lenses with short focal lengths (50mm to 60mm) are cheaper, smaller, and lighter.

What is the best lens for macro rings? ›

I LOVE using my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro Lens for macro photography and wedding ring photography. I even use this lens for engagement rings at the end of engagement sessions. If you are still photographing with an EF camera body (Canon 5D Mark iii, Canon 5D Mark IV, etc), I highly recommend this Macro Lens.

What is the advantage of Micro Four Thirds? ›

Advantages of Micro Four Thirds over compact digital cameras

Greatly increased sensor size (5–9 times larger area) gives much better image quality, e.g. low light performance and greater dynamic range, with reduced noise. Interchangeable lenses allow more optical choices including niche, legacy, and future lenses.

What is the best setting for a macro lens? ›

Selecting the right camera settings for macro photography is essential for getting up close and personal with such tiny subjects. Here's an ideal starting point to get the best macro photos: Aperture — For the smallest subjects (one inch or smaller), it's best to use a higher aperture setting between f/8 and f/11.

What is the best ratio for a macro lens? ›

A true macro lens has a magnification ratio of 1:1 (or greater), and a minimum focus distance around 30cm. But what does that mean? A magnification ratio of 1:1 means that the ratio of the subject size on the sensor plane is the same, or greater than the actual real life size of your subject.

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